Sunday, November 6, 2011

Attic Ventilation and Insulation

Fall 2011



Ventilation and insulation inside of a home’s attic is important business. Period.  The realization of proper attic ventilation is known, but misunderstandings of the inner-workings can allow improper ventilation to remain.


Entering the attic space is an ordeal in itself.  It is a tiny, cramped, and dark space where bats, rats and booty traps (that’s what I said, booby traps) await unsuspecting homeowners.  (Goonies movie reference) A fear exists that a person could be locked into the attic.  Another fear is you could step on the wrong area and find yourself bouncing on the top bunk of a children’s bed where once entrapped, are forced to watch old family holiday videos in black and white.  Have no fear, you simply wait for the family to return from Christmas shopping to open the hatch and release you. (National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation, the second movie reference in this writing for those keeping track)

Attic ventilation can save money and improve energy savings when used properly.  It may also decrease the likelihood that damage from improper ventilation may occur, not only to the home’s structure, but the health and safety of your family.  

The first step to improving ventilation is striking a balance.  Ventilation 101 states that when air or moisture comes in the attic, it must go out.


Picture courtesy of cornerhardware.com

 If no air is coming in the attic from the soffit vents (the underside of a roof), the ventilation system performs much like the “Tin Man” without oil: the system freezes up.  (The Wizard of Oz)  Literally, it does freeze in winter; think of a cave adorned with thousand of beautiful ice crystals, except the cave is your attic and the ice crystals are not supposed to be there.  If you shoot an oil can at the ice, it will only make a mess. 


Picture courtesy of hailandwind.com

The moisture created inside a home from aspiration (breathing), cooking, showering and whatever else people do in the privacy of their own homes creates moisture that “escapes” into your attic through the ceiling area in what professionals call “conditioned air.”  When I say “area” I mean any numbers of ways or orifices that provide ready transport from your living space to your attic of this “conditioned air.”  They are too numerous to mention.

Here is an interesting quasi-fact for those wondering what kind of moisture is in an attic area.  Several publications, private, governmental and some made-up, have estimates of up to six gallons of water a day that a family of four creates through these daily actions.  S-I-X gallons.  Go ahead family of four, fill up six milk jugs of water when  you have a chance, then proceed to look up at the ceiling, now back at the water jugs, and back at the ceiling.  Perplexed?  The water in those jugs is going to be in your attic…everyday.  If you do not have ventilation, where does that water go?  Well, it soaks into your rafters, plywood, drywall and nestles itself into insulation voids, etc.  Insulation and wet wood lose effectiveness and allow heat to escape through the attic, decreasing your energy efficiency.

Mold in the attic or homes have received quite a fair share of attention from many homeowners over the years.  Mold needs three things in order to grow.  It needs moisture, food and proper temperatures (32-120 degrees Fahrenheit).  We already talked about where the moisture comes from.  Now go ahead and add outside humidity to the six gallons, and we realize there is a lot of moisture in the attic space.  What is “food?”  Food for mold can be wood as it relates to an attic space.  Wood could be the rafters, sheathing or even some types of insulation have paper products or paper backing of ceiling drywall.  The third component mold needs to grow is of course the proper temperatures mentioned above.





“Lucky for us we live in a climate that can see subzero temperatures in winter, this will kill the mold.” –Homeowner from Anytown, USA.  This of course is untrue.  Mold is not killed in temperatures below 32 degree Fahrenheit, it merely lays dormant until it can feast again.

A balanced air intake and exhaust is what gives attic ventilation the ability to turn the stale moist air in the attic into fresh air.  If there is going to be an imbalance, it is better to err on the side of too much intake, the soffit vents.  Moisture is not the only reason to move air out of the attic.  Other pollutants including carbon monoxide, radon and mold can also be found in attics.

I only mention the winter and mold to show a side that is often misunderstood by homeowners.  Heat buildup is not the only issue to solve in the attic.  The winter air causes just as many problems.

Focusing on intake vents, those 8x16” metal screened openings you roll paint over every 10-15 years, are often underutilized or completely blocked off.  They could be full of paint, bugs, dust or the most likely problem is insulation is blown over the top or insulation rolls shoved over them.  Carter Exteriors, LLC is really good at painting also, and we do not paint over intake vents.

What could be the reason for intake vents to be covered by insulation?  A couple of reasons are evident in a great contractor’s mind.  The first being a push by the energy companies and the home energy audit boom.  Let’s say your heating bill is a going up every year and you hear there is money to be “earned” on a tax credit to look into attic insulation.  Sure enough you have an audit done and the energy auditors say there is not enough ventilation in the attic.  I would say unless your home was built in the last three years, you do not have enough insulation; this is almost always the case.  The suggested requirements for proper R-value has gone up considerably since the late 1970’s, and seems to get higher every year.  Currently the Department of Energy recommends an attic R-value of R-49 to R-60 for zones five and six that we have in Iowa.

So as a result of this energy audit, reason number two comes to light.  Either you go to the local home improvement store and purchase some bags or rolls of insulation and do it yourself, or you hire a contractor to come in and insulate the attic for you.  This goes back to the start of this article.  Working in an attic is a horrendous activity.  Chances are once you are in the attic all you want is to get out as fast as possible.  Working too quickly or with too little experience will lead to mistakes.  One of those mistakes is going to be covering intakes up with insulation because, gosh darn it, this is hard work.

“Covering up a few of these won’t make much of a difference.”  -Homeowner Anytown, USA.  That is a big 0 for 2 Anytown, USA.  Erring on the side of extra intakes makes all the difference as mentioned earlier.  Why do all of our quotes come from Anytown, USA?  Don’t we have anyone in Iowa we could quote?  Moving on…

Mixing different types of roof ventilation is a common error.  Ridge vent systems with box vents or adding a solar power vent, are sure ways to create ventilation problems if you do not already have them.  Chances are there is not enough intake ventilation to warrant adding a secondary exhaust vent in the first place, even if it were the right thing to do, which it is not.


I’ll take improper roof exhaust venting for $500 Alex

Air will always follow the path of least resistance.  Of course air cannot be seen by the human eye.  Air is sneaky and passive-aggressive in nature, and overall one must always remember, it cannot be trusted.  Unlike air, the smoke test never lies.  Note:  Please be advised; DO NOT start a fire next to your home to create smoke.  Smoke tests are not done by creating fires.  A smoke test will give a good picture of how the ventilation is working in the attic, but should only be done by a trained professional using the proper tools!



Ice Dams are caused by bad roof ventilation and/or misplaced insulation.  That is all for this subject.  It is that simple.


If installing soffit and roof ventilation or insulation is such a terrible and horrible experience, why does CarterExteriors, LLC do it?  Because we are tradesmen and it is what tradesmen do, they get dirty and uncomfortable so you do not have to.  It is what we do and why we get paid.  We do not end up getting that dirty because we send the guy in the picture below up there to do the work.  The problem is his doesn’t come cheap.




Pink Panther Registered trademark of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios & Owens Corning
FinanceFarmer







Sunday, September 19, 2010

Gutter Covers: A professional's honest opinion.

Fall 2010






Gutter covers have existed in the residential home improvement market since man first installed gutters.  Why do we have gutters at all?  

Gutters are wide open mouths that feed upon airborne contaminants and feast with great appetite on shingle granules that perpetually roll into its K-Styled gutter jowls. Here in Iowa, and much of the Midwest, 5" K-Style guttering systems rule supreme. Other notables include 6" K-Style, or 7" Box-Style gutters, and corresponding sized Half-Round guttering systems.  The importance of a fully functioning gutter system is often overlooked as few look "up" on a regular basis and adore the beauty of .032 gauge roll-formed aluminum with factory baked-on finishes.  The fine lines of a 2x3, or even better, a 3x4" downspout system that leads nature's fruit juice (water) away from our humble structures.

Gutters serve several purposes in protecting the buildings we live and work in.  Gutter systems protect from premature paint failure, rotten fascia and soffit, erosion of grade, damage to landscaping and water infiltration to basements.  The added benefits of a seamless guttering system are well known but how does one keep them working in optimal condition?  Well, with gutter....wait for it....covers.

If we are to "name names" in this area of the exterior remodeling business, rearranging the words gutter, leaf, guards, proof or protection in any array of organization  would give us the names of 90% of the manufacturers in the gutter protection industry...by our estimation.  Gutter Guards, Gutter Helmet, Leaf X, Leafproof, LeafFilter or GutterProof just to name a few...all of these are registered trademarked names of course.

The first question I normally get from clients and customers alike is "Do they work?" quickly followed by "How much are they?" and that is usually followed by a resounding "Get off my property."  The summarized response of the two popular questions and one threat are "Yes," "Expensive" and "Please do not harm my family, I only came in peace."

Do They Work?
Every gutter protection brand on the market I have seen, and I have seen dozens, does work.  They all work in their own "special" way.  Some of the products are anything but special and only work when the conditions are absolutely perfect.  These are the ones to avoid.  There are several consistent contenders on the market and I see little difference in performance from the Top 5 manufacturers, in my opinion.  Some manufacturers of gutter protection make claims of handling winds of 150+ mph and 20+ inches of rain in an hour.  Lets take a moment to break these numbers down.  150+ mph winds result in...a building destroyed.  20+ inches of rain in an hour...building is now a boat or raft.  It would be wise to avoid being sucked-in to these outrageous marketing gimmicks when selecting a gutter cover/protections system for your property.

How much do they cost? Part One
When I am asked this question I no longer give a dollar amount.  I simply refer to the cost of gutter covers/protection as the equivalent of a complete tear-off/removal of the gutter system and subsequent re-install of a brand new gutter system...now take that dollar value times three and you are in the ball park.  So yes, one could hypothetically let their gutters fill up with debris and instead of cleaning them, have them torn down and replaced with new gutters three times and still be even money on installing gutter protection.  First of all this is an extreme example.  Secondly it it allows building owners to wrap their heads around the scope of the project.

Why do they cost so much?  Part Two
Believe what you will, but most companies are in business to make money.  I know this is not the first time you have heard this.  I do not know of a gutter cover/protection manufacturer who is non-profit, or manufacturers pro-bono.

The first cost of gutter protection is raw materials.  Aluminum is the material of choice and does not come free.  Even as a gutter protection manufacturer, chances are they are not purchasing the aluminum directly from the aluminum producers.  They purchase from a wholesaler who in turns delivers to the gutter protection manufacturer.  Already we have three businesses generating revenue from the raw material.  The aluminum producer, the shipping/trucking companies and the wholesaler all take their cut and add cost to the end-using consumers.  Then the machines that form the gutter protection system...they require tool and die professionals who have companies that take a cut...and the list goes on and on...  Sometimes it helps to take time when purchasing consumer goods to take a look  at how our complex economy works.  The value chain of marketing and customer retention cost a pretty penny also.  We have not even begun to install the gutter protection system and we can see how many jobs and families are affected when we as consumers buy any product on the market.  Gutter covers/protection systems do not sprout from seeds as finished products and even if they did we would have to pay the "gutter cover farmer" for his efforts.

Yes they work and are expensive.  How do we know they work?  
Once upon a time we too were skeptic.  Then several years ago we were working on a roof that had gutter covers installed in the early 1980's when the house was constructed.  It was a primitive system by today's standards but did the job all the same.  When after 20 years of service the gutter remained clean.  There were some shingle granules and a fine layer of dirt in some areas, but generally the gutters were in pristine condition.

There are no secret holes, bends, texture, color or multi-angle configuration that makes one cover work better than another.  They are all based on the same principle that water will come off the roof and adhere to the cover itself while debris is thrown overboard and into the great expanse that is the home's yard.  Some debris will enter the guttering system on any product but should flow down the gutter and out the downspouts without causing any problems.  The entire goal is to keep large debris that could be stick, leaves and such from entering the gutter in the first place and is the source of most gutter clogs.

Stay far away from anything plastic when it comes to gutter covers or anything that sits down inside the gutter.  Plastic is not strong enough, will not hold up to environmental exposure and is subject to extreme movement in climates that transition from hot to cold.  This type of climate is prevalent in Iowa and sometimes can happen all in the same day...or hour.  The truth of the matter is spending money on less expensive gutter covers and protection will, in the long run, cost more financially and economically than the installation of a solid gutter cover/protection system with a lifetime warranty in the first place.

Carter Exteriors, LLC has used three gutter cover systems on a regular basis around Iowa.  The real reason we use certain products is quite simple.  The market becomes saturated with products of all types.  The barrier for entry into selling gutter covers is virtually non-existent.  All that is required is to find one customer to install your product and start advertising.  Sometimes one customer is only a suggestion...just start advertising and someone will buy it.  We have made and sold gutter covers from manufacturers with a visible track record and customer satisfaction.  The more detailed explanation is listed below.

We started with manufacturing custom covers on-site with a machine from Van Mark Industries.  The machine is called Trim-A-Gutter and has several advantages.  When installed with color-matched aluminum to the shingles color, and not necessarily the gutter color, it does look very respectable and virtually can disappear from sight.  It is somewhat bulky compared to other products but is completely customizable to the job at hand.  There is also no waste with this product.  The Trim-A-Gutter uses the same gutter coil that is used to make the gutters or a separate coil.  We only use what we need.  Other gutter protection manufacturers sell their product to us in boxes of pre-made four foot sections.  We may use one piece from a box or a whole box depending on the job.  With the Trim-A-Gutter we only make what we need therefore reducing cost and waste.

The second product(s) we used and are using are from Leafproof and LeafX.  I honestly consider these two products nearly identical.  Although the manufacturers would strongly disagree.  They are different products and each has their strengths and weaknesses as compared against the rest of the market.  In the context of this discussion though they are similar in style, visible profile and installation procedures.  Carter Exteriors, LLC has installed these two manufacturers due to ease of obtaining products, support and training for Leafproof and LeafX.  


Trim-a-Gutter




LeafX

LeafProof

All three of the gutter protection  manufacturers listed are installed between the starter strip of shingles and actual shingles.  Some companies main marketing is directed at this type of install.  Breaking the seal from a starter shingle is just asking for leaks and ice dams to wreck havoc on your roof, according to them.  The other side of marketing would claim the solid gutter protection systems actually reduces ice dams from forming in the first place.  Who to believe?

Much as in the case of roofing, ice dams are the product of poor ventilation.  Ice/Water shield membranes, gutter protection or even building directional facings have little to do with the formation of ice dams and are merely a bandage for the cause of the problem.  Have your attic ventilation checked and installed by a competent professional.

If the current gutter system on the house is, for lack of a better word, ugly, then the gutter cover system will too be ugly.  Certain hanging brackets used for gutters on older homes with angled fascia are extremely hard to work with.  Wedges must be installed to bring the gutters back to the proper secure fashion.  At this point there is so much labor and materials involved in re-hanging and securing now would be the time to replace the gutters.  The gutters at this point will be the least expensive cost to the project.

It is rather amazing the incredible amount of improperly hung gutters there are on residential homes.  Gutters do not need much slope to do their job.  We have seen gutters that slope 4" from one end to the downspout on runs of 30.'  With that kind of extreme slope the gutters are not being used to their capacity and are incredibly inefficient.  I would rather a gutter have no slope and be perfectly level.  The water will find the lowest spot and drain from there.  Why do I bring this up when it is obviously a gutter specific issue?  The issue would be that gutters installed with too much slope should be re-hung to proper specs before gutter cover installation. There is no way around it and if someone tells you otherwise, repeat after me "Get off my property."

Jerry R. Carter
Carter Exteriors, LLC